Charles A. Buckman, CSS, CEI
elevator systems consultant
Recommendations for the selection of equipment by a noted authority.
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Choosing a Stair Lift
Someone in the household has a physical disability of some sort, and there are stairs that must be negotiated daily as a quality of life point.
Considering the user:
Is the disability progressive, as opposed in place and unchanging? If the problem is unchanging, things are relatively easy; we simply an efficiently address those problems, and they "go away". If they are not (i.e. a bad case would be the diagnosis's is MS, the user will eventually be in a wheelchair, seat lifts would be useless) a different assessment needs be made.
Is the user elderly? If so, a number of different lift factors are germane to the purpose, as follows:
The fast buck contractor will come in, driven by the so-called "Zellers Rule" (the Lowest Price is the Law) and hector you to near death that he is charging five bucks less (or three thousand dollars less) than anyone else. Well, that may be true, but we all want a Buick more than a Chevy, but would be really suspicious if they were offered at the same price, wouldn't we? Very, very few of us buy the cheapest house or car that we can. Remarkably few people get the cheapest legal or health advice they can. Those that buy the cheapest clothes and food that they can are driven to that by circumstance that all would wish they could avoid. My point, plainly, is why buy the cheapest assistive device available? You could sell a car that was a "mistake", try selling a "used" elevator! By yourself!
Amusingly, the handouts, flyers and brochures on seat lifts all show the same photo series. That would be the warm cuddly Grandma getting on the seat at the bottom, riding with a big smile to the top, swiveling the seat to exit onto the upper landing and walking away.
I am not going to get into those seat lifts with a wide trough that have you ride facing "downhill". These are basically garbage, a winch and a chair, and make no allowance whatever for disabilities.
Facing sideways, along the stair nosings, that one moves upwards or downwards to the left or right is the mark of a quality equipment. However, once we get to the top, egressing the seat in the "up" is one thing, mounting it for the "down" is another. Go back to that photo series; now Grandma has to reach across the seat, yank a lever to unlock the chair so its on loose swivel, grab the free-swiveling seat and fall backwards into it at the top of the stairs....well, maybe yours, not my Mom; not my wife, and not me.
Sorry, but for few hundred (or a thousand) dollars, I'll have what is called a "top overrun", that the chair runs out onto the top landing, where the user merely walks up to it on a level surface. No spinning seat! No danger of flight of stairs to fall down. What price your peace of mind? Mine comes high.
Some other thoughts and considerations:
What happens if there's a blackout? The power is off, you're halfway down the stair and "marooned" there.
Is there a manual lowering device to get the rider out of the mess NOW? If so how easy is it to access? Does it need tools? Is it simple and within the ability of other persons normally there? If the lift dies out of station can you crank it back into station and recharge it?
Is a battery drive unit available through this contractor?
If so, how long do the batteries last?
What's the replacement price of the cells (you will pay for any and all services!).
Battery drive lifts have to have charging points; so what happens if the grandchild kicks one and the lift dies in or out of station? Does the warranty cover it? What is the repair cost? How soon can a repair be effected? ON WHAT DAYS? Christmas?
How often, each day will the lift be used? Batteries should be discharged about 30% and then recharged.
If total discharge is achieved, what's the number of cycles before they're dead?
If the battery dies, how long are you marooned at that level before it charges all the way to the top?
Is there a battery gauge?
Are the batteries vented, do they heat up, can they leak, or have container collapse (container collapse is when the hull of the battery is defeated and they leak acid onto the surrounding area). Look for some sort of lifetime guarantee that is "acid proof"....
Public lifts require an overspeed safety, private ones typically do not. Does yours have one? If it did not matter, why do public installations require it?
What is the guarantee, "free maintenance", or warranty period offered? If its less than a year, the manufacturer may know something you do not. Of course, unless you are Ralph Nader, you will pay.
Do you have to pay "money up front" with the order?
Plainly, if you die or wish to cancel halfway through the process, you owe the contractor for his work. (The manufacturer charges him a cancellation cost, depending how far along production is) On the other hand, if you hand him 50% up front, he has more than his profit margin in hand (and his profit margin may be as low as 10 per cent!); why would he get your job done?(i.e. it would "cost" him money to complete it...) Its money in the bank! Pay him 100% on completion to your satisfaction, 85% on substantial completion (i.e. the lifts in and demonstrably running).
Remember, YOU ARE THE BUYER YOU SET THE TERMS FOR YOUR MONEY NOT THE PROSPECTIVE CONTRACTOR! (And how much does the price change on YOUR terms?.
Unless you're buying on a bet through Joe's Corner Garage, Trans-Pacific Airline and Storm Door Company, (and I don't like your chances), always ask for references that are both new (management or policy may have changed), and five or eight years old (how reliable is both equipment, manufacturer and contractor?)(you may have just "married" them!)
Are lifts taxable in your province, state or country? This is something to check out, because usually they are NOT!.
If they are not taxable, quite likely they are a complete medical expense tax write off. Again, check this out, that you can document EVERY EXPENSE associated with them, and WRITE IT OFF!
Can you rent, or lease the lift?
A lot of contractors provide this service. It costs nothing to ask, and you'll get a lot of respect from the contractor. All rent or lease payments are total write-offs at tax time...inclined (stair) lifts can be removed without a trace, so this applies where vertical elevators may not. Most probably there will be a large up front charge on a lease. In fairness the contractor has to pay up front for his installers.
Determine the maintenance requirement and interval on the equipment? You'll be paying, you'd be silly not to ask, and make a five dollar price driven decision that could cost hundreds in service fees.
This seems really dumb, but could the installation of the lift injure or hurt someone who could trip, fall, or cut themselves on it? Be sure to take all avenues of protection.
We could, any one of us, either win the lottery or drop dead tomorrow. So can the lift be sold for anything near its cost? Can a left hand mount unit be right mounted? Can the rails be re-worked? Or is it trash? The chances of selling your house to someone needing a lift are fairly remote...so what's one lift worth opposed another? Can you get a guaranteed buy back clause for one or two years? Why not?
Is there a security concern that you face in your home? Small children that may play with the unit? A need for safety "touch sensitive" devices on the conveyance? These ARE available. Ask for a complete list of options.
Be prepared to wait a certain amount of time for delivery. This is NOT a quality issue. Some companies have lifts made of components that "bolt together", others are custom builders, there's no advantage one way or the other if you do this right. Just deduct any deposit interest from their price!
You guys will kill me for leaving this so late in the advice; IS IT COMFORTABLE TO SIT AND RIDE IN? Please don't tell me you haven't tried one out...Does it come in a color and style that compliments your home's decor? If it does not, will this really burn you for the next ten or twenty years?
Does the lift have CSA, ULC, UL and or ANSI compliance? If not, why not? If not you shouldn't buy it. These organizations exist to protect the consumer.
Do you have an architectural problem? Staircases with bends and turns are usually addressed by custom built designs that are capable of both inside radius bends and outside radius bends. Some stair-climbers can really put the rider in the hallway of the second floor. These are the premium products of the larger manufacturers but given that changing over a house is expensive, these are typically the cheapest and most efficient means of allowing owners to retain their homes in their older years.
I should add that no design of lift is either the "best" or the "poorest". What with the bewildering variety and scope of physical challenges, every design will meet the needs and budgets of someone. New designs are arriving from off shore, (predominantly Europe) that are good solid designs, albeit different in many ways from North America's state of the art.
We welcome questions and comments. Please send them to the email address below.
Selecting a Vertical Platform Lift
In the original diagnosis and prognosis we focused on an individual user who was not, and hopefully never would be, confined to a wheelchair. What happens when a wheelchair comes into the picture?
At that point, we have to examine the "platform lifts" that can carry a person seated in a wheelchair. We'll look at the residential market first in a short lift application.
These are the lifts that you will typically find lifting a chair to a deck or porch level. There are many types manufactured, using a wide variety of drive systems, costing anywhere from a couple thousand to tens of thousands.
Typically, the machine will have a high rectangular drive mast, with an open ended car cantilevered from it. Almost universally, the drive mast will need to be supported by a structural member. Remember to look for something really solid!
Now, this will draw some argument, but it is this writer's belief that the use of this type of lift in a residential application should be restricted to outdoor units. I believe there are far, far better equipment options for interior use in a house.
There is a category of lift that is known as an "open" or unenclosed lift. These are popular as they are the cheapest (less metal in the design leads to lower cost). They allow things to be placed or happen to travel underneath the car. Safety is addressed by a sensing plate which, if the lift is lowered onto the obstruction, shall be pressed up and stop the conveyance. Some lifts do not have this sensing plate, and I consider these accidents waiting for a time to happen, the place is identified.
If your lift has no sensing plate then adding one, or building a surrounding barrier around the lift would be wise. DON'T TEST FOR IT BY STANDING UNDER THE LIFT! Look under and see if there is a suspended plate or rubber nosing under the lift. If so, while the lift is moving down, press up on the nosing or plate with a broomstick inserted from the side away from the lift.
Lifts offering enclosures have another advantage: they will typically have an electro-mechanical interlock that prevents the lift from running with the door or gate open. It is apparent that these safety aspects considerably affect the homeowner's liability, should any accident occur. How much risk do you like to take in your neighborhood?
While we are discussing a residential outdoor application, lets look at other environmental factors.
1. Acid rain is a fact of life. For that reason (as well as salt for roads and walks in winter), the lift should be made out of either stainless steel or aluminum.
2. Rain, driving wind, and the neighbors sprinklers make it important that the lift controls are both waterproofed and connected to a ground fault interrupter.
3. Options should be explored for various finishes. We are proud of where we live and invest enormous number of hours and dollars in our houses, why not buy something that can be fitted in to the color scheme?
4. Operating "noise" (the machine sound the drive makes) is not usually a consideration, but if the lift is close to the lot line, you might want to think about your neighbor's reaction to your late arrival or early departure!
5. Lifts only really work well where they are installed plumb and true. Please seriously consider a substantial concrete pad under yours, with appropriate drainage. Dirt, bricks, wood, patio blocks just don't get it done.
6. On the same note, the superstructure you are lifting to should be substantial. I do not favor wooden structures as they tend to warp, twist or sag. Can we get some concrete in there? The safety factor is required by code (ASME A18.1-1999, Rule 2.5.2) to be not less than seven or eight times depending on the suspension means.
7. Lighting: remember, in all probability the lift will be used at night, so you will want to put some lights around the lift. Is the carriage equipped with a light? Its so much easier to see things when this option is included.
8. Is the lift equipped with means of emergency and manual lowering? I'd hate to be stuck in one in mid winter, or a rainstorm. Or a blackout. Does the stand-by battery pack illuminate when the power goes out? Don't get the one with no lights?
9. How cold does it get where you live? If you are in a winter affected area, knowing that there was a tank or gearbox heater with a solenoid monitoring temperature would be something that cheered you up in knowing the lift would be reliable.
10. Speaking of winter, with ice and snow, did you remember to put a pad heater in when you poured the concrete? I'd sooner have the snow and ice melted off as it landed.
11. How much do you, your chair, and everything you might want to carry with you weigh? What's the lift capacity? To the point, I would like to see a lift capacity around 750lbs because when the new fridge comes (or whatever), if there's a lift, freight tends to be placed on it.
12. Is the lift restricted in operation by some means? I'd like to see a key switch to run it, rather than think the kids down the street could play with it. Another liability thing that is easy to avoid.
13. Speed costs dollars, typically. So speed here is not really important in most cases. The reason its not so important is that we are only going to use this lift type for travel of probably four to six feet vertically. Once you get above that, you have to start looking at upping the typical 10-15 fpm speed, usually at some cost. I do not like this lift being used much more than six feet, unless there are really good reasons.
14. At the top level, we have to have some protection from falling off the deck through the lift entry space and down some distance. So the greater the travel, the more liability needs be addressed by an upper landing gate. And that gate should be at least electrically,and mechanically interlocked to the lift. So the gate cannot open unless the car is there.
15. Remember, the car is not going to have and "end" or wall on the side facing the upper landing. So when installed we want a "fascia plate" from the upper sill down to the pit, perfectly plumb, smooth and relatively strong (so it doesn't dent or deform). Make sure that the fascia plate is never more than three quarters of an inch away from the car, unless you're really angry at your cat.
16. Protect your investment. If there is a way to put a cover over it (remembering to vent any total enclosure), do it! Why have to shovel the snow out of it, have it covered in ice etc? And be sure nothing can fall off the roof onto the lift!
17. Get references, of both new and old installations. These are unmonitored lifts that could be difficult to control, so get the contractor to show what kind of insurance he is carrying. Discuss this with your insurance agency.
18. Assure yourself that you are in compliance with the law. Get a building department opinion as well as direction from the elevator inspection branch. Ask if they will do an inspection on completion. Compel the contractor to go unpaid until that base is covered.
19. Make sure there is some method by which you can summon help if you are ever stranded in the lift. Yes, I know you have a cellular phone, but you don't want to be stuck the day you forget it. Makes sure there's some sort of bell or buzzer in the car.
Final Point: This is a piece of electro-mechanical equipment. As such, like your car, it periodically needs a checkup. A little grease in a timely fashion will save you money long term. ("Pay the contractor now, or pay him later, big time"). He will also check to see that it continues to be safe to ride. Good idea! Otherwise you might want to equip it with a ladder......or a parachute!
What ever you do, don't get cheap! You'll pay later!!!
ABOUT HILL CLIMBERS
Insist on buffered safeties.
VFAC is the state of the art;
Install big copper spades to defend against lightening hits; these things attract lightening.
Locate your top and bottom landings; run a string from one to the other measure the angle from the bottom landing, and know the distance when calling in.
From your planning string, three feet on each side of the wire must be kept clear.
Standard car sizes are 3'x5' or 4'x5' for disabled access.
Side doors much easier than end doors.
Landing stations should be made of concrete and steel or aluminum.
You need one major foundation block, and the rest just hold the rails straight.
Paint the elevator black to make it disappear.
Try to get galvanised rails.
Roget Taylor in Vancouver also has a neat machine called the Matrina Ramp Rider for h/c access for docks and marinas affected by tide; Try Marina Ramp Rider on your web browser. Cheap versions of hill climbers abound but these either plain don't work or have a service life of five years...always ask for references of ten year old work.
The other trick question is "Does it meet ASME A18.1? Will you license it?" That scares the sleazy operators off.
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